A slide-in range is designed to slide in and fit flush with your countertop. This is ideal for an island peninsula, and can also be used in a regular setting to showcase a decorative backsplash. With a slide-in range, cooktop and oven controls are at the front of the appliance. A freestanding range is used in traditional installations (against the kitchen wall), and typically has a backsplash with a clock and controls that are on the front, the top, or the backsplash.

: Both drop-in cooktops and slide-in cooktops can be used in an island, peninsula or a traditional setting. The main difference is that a drop-in cooktop will have the controls on the top while the slide-in will have them on the front. A slide-in cooktop will require special installation.

A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1˚F. BTUs are used as a measurement of the heating power of gas cooktops or ovens. To decide how much BTU capacity you’d like in your appliance, consider the following:

• The higher the BTU capacity, the hotter the cooktop or oven can get. For everyday cooking, 9,000 BTUs is generally sufficient.
• If you plan to do a lot of high-heat cooking—such as sautéing or stir-frying—you might find that you want 12,000 BTUs or more. Commercial burners can be as high as 20,000 BTUs, and some designed for home use can have 15,000 BTUs. With that kind of heat, you can bring eight quarts of water to a boil in six minutes.
• You may also want a higher degree of precision for low-heat cooking. Some burners, for example, can go down to 5,000 BTUs and cycle on and off, allowing you to simmer a dish without scorching it.
• Consider cooking surfaces with various burner and/or element configurations to offer you the greatest degree of flexibility in your cooking.

For cookware to work on an induction surface, it must be magnetic and have a completely flat bottom. In general, most stainless steel and cast iron cookware will work. Here’s a simple test: Try sticking a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If the magnet sticks, that cookware should work; if it doesn’t, most likely the cookware is not compatible with an induction cooktop surface.

Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.

Each gas range has a shut-off valve, which supplies gas to the surface burners. To check that this valve is open and working, follow these steps:

• Remove the lower drawer.
• Locate the shut-off valve in the right rear of the drawer compartment.
• Check that the tab of the shut-off valve is facing toward the right.

When the tab on the valve is facing right, your range should work.

The light will stay on until the cooktop has cooled down.

To self-clean your oven, follow these simple steps:

Remove the oven racks.

Set your oven control to clean.

Select a cleaning time or choose a cleaning level: light, medium, or heavy soiled. For typical cleaning needs, we recommend that you select a cleaning time of three hours or choose the medium soiled setting.

Select Start. (To set a delayed start, see your use and care manual.)

Note: For safety reasons, the oven door will remain locked until the oven cools down. When it is sufficiently cool, the door will automatically unlock.

To close an open door when it’s in the locked position and the door is open, press and hold the oven door light switch while following these simple steps:

• Program the oven to self-clean.
• Wait 20 seconds.
• Cancel self-clean.
• Wait 20 seconds.

You should then be able to close the door.

If you have cast iron grates, follow these steps:

• Wash the grates in the dishwasher.
• Coat the grates with a thin layer of cooking oil.
• Bake the grates in the oven on 350˚F for 10 minutes.

If you have porcelain-coated grates, simply place them in the dishwasher and coat any unfinished areas with a thin layer of cooking oil after washing.

Keep your burner components clean by using a mild non-granular cleaner, such as ammonia or a degreaser. This will ensure that the gas ports do not get blocked. When putting the parts back together, always make sure the burners and caps are level and firmly set in place.

We recommend Frigidaire Cerama Bryte cleaner, which is specialized for cooktops.

o keep your oven racks gliding smoothly when you’re removing or inserting them, we recommend applying cooking oil along their outer edges.

Your washer’s model and serial number can be found on the underside of the lid of most top load washers. They are located on the inside of the door of the Front Load washer. The top load washer has the serial plate on the underside of the lid. The front load washer has the serial plate located either on the inner door or the door well depending on the product. It’s always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.

Front load washers offer several benefits, including:

Front load washers have no center agitator, but instead rely on tumble action to wash gently and rinse completely, helping your clothes last longer and feel fresher.

The exact amount of water required is automatically sensed by the washer, so you only use the amount of water you need.

The washer’s dispenser mixes detergent, softener, and bleach safely away from your clothes.

Added capacity and efficiency produce savings of up to 82% in energy and water consumption—or up to $180 and 10,000 gallons of water a year.

Installation options are more flexible than standard top load units, to better suit your space and needs.

Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.

When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.

If your washer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:

The wash cycle is in a pause stage. This is normal—a pause occurs between the wash and spin cycles, with a longer pause occurring during the soak cycle. Normal pauses also occur as part of the reverse tumbling action of a Front Load washer.

The cycle selector knob is not quite to the start position. To ensure it’s correctly positioned, turn the knob or dial slightly past your desired start position, then pull it out to start the washer.

The power cord may not be plugged in, or the connection may be loose. Check to be sure the plug fits tightly into the wall outlet. Note: Do not use an extension cord. Depending on the quality of the extension cord and the length, the power actually getting to the washer may be greatly reduced and not allow the washer to perform properly.

The door or lid of the washer is open. For your safety, the door or lid of your washer must be completely closed for the washer to fill, tumble or agitate, and spin.

A fuse is blown in your home, or a circuit breaker tripped. If this is the case, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse (but do not increase the fuse capacity). If you have an overloaded circuit, contact a qualified electrician to correct it.

The motor is overheated. Your washer’s motor will stop if it becomes overheated, then automatically restart after a cool-down period of up to 30 minutes (if the timer has not been manually turned off). If problem continues, contact us for service.

A power outage has occurred. In this case, you might want to call your local electric company.

If water is flowing into your washer slowly or isn’t flowing in at all, you might find a solution by checking the following:

• Hot and cold water faucets. Be sure that your water supply faucets are completely open.
• Water fill hoses. Check your water hoses to see if they might be kinked. If so, simply straighten the hoses.
• Water pressure. Your washer needs sufficient water pressure to fill. You might want to avoid running too much water elsewhere in your home while the washer is filling.
• Water supply. Turn on another faucet in your home to check the water supply in your area. You may need to wait until your water supply and pressure increase before running your washer.
• The washer door or lid. Make sure the lid or door of your Front Load washer is completely latched. For your safety, the door must be fully closed for the washer to operate.
• The dispenser drawer. Check to see that the dispenser drawer on your Front Load washer is completely closed.
• The filter on the water valve. If the filter screens on your water valve are clogged, turn off your water faucets and remove the hoses from the water valve connections. Clean the filter screens then reconnect the hoses and turn on the water. Check for any leaks at the connections and tighten if necessary.

If water is flowing into your washer, but the tub or drum does not fill, it might be due to one of the below reasons:

The drain standpipe length To prevent siphoning off of the incoming water, the standpipe can’t be too short—it must be at least 33 inches high for a top load washer or 24 inches high for a Front Load washer. For more information, please refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer.

The drain hose fit. If the drain hose fits too tightly in the standpipe, siphoning could result. Be sure that there is an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe, and that the standpipe is least 1 ¼ inches in diameter.

The drain hose pushed too far down the standpipe. The drain hose should be securely inserted into the standpipe, but not so far in that it reaches the trap area of the standpipe plumbing.

If water is leaking out of your washer, check the below:

• Is the drain clogged? If you have a clogged drain, it will need to be cleaned—contact a local plumber if necessary.
• Is the drain hose restricted, or out of the standpipe? If the drain hose is out of the standpipe, you’ll need to secure it. You can do this by bending the end to form a hook, placing the hooked end into the standpipe, and tying the hose to the standpipe or a faucet with a cable tie (one was supplied with the washer), strong filament tape, or duct tape.
• Is the fill hose connection loose at the faucet or washer? Check and tighten the hose connections. If they’re loose, you might need to install or replace rubber sealing washers.
• Are you using of a high-sudsing detergent, or is your water soft? Using a high-sudsing detergent, or using too much detergent in soft water, can cause suds to overflow the washer. This may seem like a leak if the suds flow or drip onto the floor. Use a low-sudsing detergent, and reduce the amount of detergent you use if your water is soft.

If the temperature for your wash and rinse cycles is not what you selected, check the temperature control knob. If it’s between settings, turn it until the indicator clicks into position for your desired water temperature.

You can also check to see if your hot water and cold water hoses are reversed. Run water from each faucet to check if the hoses are connected to the right supply faucets. The hot water hose should be connected to the hot faucet and to the water valve connection markedH on the washer. The other hose should be connected to the cold faucet and the water valve connection marked C on the washer.

To increase the water temperature for your washer, look into the following:

Water heater setting. Your water heater may be set too low. Measure the hot water temperature at the washer or a nearby faucet with a thermometer. It should reach at least 120°F. If it doesn’t, adjust your water heater.

Hot water usage elsewhere in the home. Your hot water heater may not be able to supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses. Based on the capacity of your water heater, you may need to avoid using hot water elsewhere before or during the use of your washer.

Distance between your water heater and washer. It’s possible that water may cool as it moves through the pipes from your water heater to the washer. Try opening the hot water faucet at a nearby sink to drain cool water from the pipes before starting the washer.

ENERGY STAR® appliances. Energy-saving washers have controls that supply cooler warm water as a means to save energy and money. These water temperatures may seem cooler than what you were used to in older, high-energy use machines; however, the washer is performing properly.

For a top load washer, you can increase the water level by turning the Water Level/Load Size control to RESET and then selecting a higher level or load size.

A Front Load washer will automatically determine the proper water level for each load—you don’t have to do anything. Because of the water efficiency of this type of washer, its water level will never be above the bottom of the door.

If your washer isn’t spinning, check to be sure the lid or door is securely closed. For your safety, the washer will not spin if it’s open.

On a Front Load washer, you can also check to see whether the dispenser drawer is open—it should be completely closed.

Finally, if your load is out of balance, this might also prevent the washer from spinning. Rearrange it to allow for proper spinning, possibly adding one or two similar items to help balance a small load.

If you washer is draining water slowly, check the following:

• The drain hose. If it’s kinked, straighten it to improve water flow to the drain.
• The drain. Be sure it’s clear and not clogged. (It needs to be able to eliminate 17 gallons of water per minute.)
• The height of the standpipe. It cannot be more than 96 inches high.
• The drain hose seal. If the drain hose has been taped (or sealed) into the standpipe, the seal should not be completely tight because the standpipe requires air for proper draining. If necessary, remove some of the tape on the seal to make an air path.
• The drain hose fit. If it fits too tightly in the standpipe, create an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe for proper draining. The standpipe needs to be at least 1 ¼ inches in diameter.
• The amount of detergent. Using too much detergent can also inhibit draining.
• The pump. It’s possible that your pump may be clogged. If you suspect this is the case, please call your authorized servicer.

A number of things can increase the amount of suds produced when you wash a load of laundry, including:

Soft water. You need less detergent when the water supply is naturally soft, or chemically or mechanically softened.

Detergent type. Your detergent should be compatible with your washer type. High efficiency (HE) detergents are recommended for Front Load Washers, and are formulated to reduce suds and ensure proper cleaning.

Pretreated items. Because pretreatment products remain on items that go in the wash, they can add to the suds normally produced by your detergent. When using these products, simply use less than the recommended amount of detergent.

Other laundry products. Products such as oxygen bleach can produce extra suds. Simply reduce the amount of detergent you use when you’re also using products such as an oxygen bleach.

Detergent amount. For optimum results, follow directions for the recommended amount of detergent, with adjustments for type and amount of soil, load size, and water hardness and temperature.

You can remove excess suds by stopping the washer and advancing the cycle selector to Final Spin. Rewash the load in cold water without detergent and repeat, if necessary, until the final rinse water is clear.

It’s normal for a heavy wash load to sometimes produce a thumping sound at the beginning of the spin cycle. If the sound does not stop, the load is likely out of balance. Simply stop the washer and rearrange the items.

Rattling or clanking sounds can be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners in the load. You can fasten these items and turn garments inside out to reduce the sound. Rattling or clanking might also be caused by foreign objects (such as coins or safety pins) in the tub or drum. Stop the washer and check for objects in the tub or drum. If none are present and the sound continues, an object may be in the pump and you should call for authorized service.

If your washer is vibrating, it might be due to one of the reasons below:

The load is off balance. Shut off the washer, wait for the safety lock to release, and redistribute the clothes evenly in the washer. If the load remains out of balance, simply add 1 or 2 similar items and restart the washer.

The washer needs to be resting firmly on the floor. The washer must be level (both front to back and side to side), with each washer leg sitting solidly on the floor. A top load washer laundry center has self-leveling rear legs, which you can adjust by tipping the washer forward so that the back is about an inch off the floor, and then setting it back down. For Front Load Washers, remove the front access panel, loosen the lock nuts, turn legs in or out slightly until the washer sets solidly on the floor, then tighten the lock nuts. For maximum stability, leveling legs should not extend more than ½ inch below the washer bottom.

The washer needs to be on a sturdy floor. Be sure the washer is installed on a hard floor—not a carpeted one. Install the washer on a section of ¾ inch plywood that has been secured to the floor joists with lag screws.

Shipping materials are still in the washer. For a top load washer, remove the shipping bolt located at the bottom center of the washer and refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer. For a Front Load washer, remove the 3 shipping bolts, 3 yellow spacers, and 3 metal “P” clamps from the back of the washer. Make sure the foam shipping block has been removed from the bottom of the washer. On some models, you’ll also need to remove the access panel from the front of the unit, then remove the 2 yellow shipping braces and Styrofoam shipping block and replace the access panel.

For your safety, the lid of a top load washer cannot be opened during the spin cycle. To open it, simply stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the safety lock to open.

On a front load washer, the door will be locked during the entire wash cycle. Before tumbling starts, you can stop the washer and then wait for the water to drain off the window before opening the door. To open the door during the spin cycle, stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the lock to release—do not force the door open.

Clothes might seem too wet because they were rinsed in cold water. While a cold-water rinse saves energy and reduces wrinkling, it tends to leave clothes feeling wetter.

If your clothes seem wetter than they should be after the spin cycle, check the following:

The drain hose should be straight and unclogged.

The load might be off balance—rearrange it to allow for proper spinning.

The load might be too big. A load of dry clothes in a top load washer should not be higher than the top row of holes in the tub; the drum of a Front Load washer should not be tightly packed (the door should close easily).

Select a cycle with a faster spin speed (if your washer has this feature).

It’s possible that a pump may be clogged. If so, you will need to call your authorized service provider.

Yes, it is normal for a small amount of water to remain in the dispenser drawer of a Front Load washer. If you like, you can simply remove the dispenser drawer and empty the water, but it isn’t necessary.

For optimal care of your washer, we recommend that you follow the below guidelines:

Promptly remove finished loads

Clean the top and sides of the washer with a damp cloth or mild detergent and water. Be sure to avoid harsh, gritty, or abrasive cleansers.

Leave the lid, door, and dispenser drawer open when your washer is not in use.

To remove any odors, add 1 cup of chlorine bleach to the washer’s empty tub. Run the regular cycle using hot wash water and cold rinse water.

Remove any interior stains with a nonabrasive household cleanser or diluted chlorine bleach (½ cup bleach to 1 quart water), then rinse well.

After using a Front Load washer, dry the edge of the door, the flexible gasket, and the door glass.

On a top load washer, clean the bleach and fabric softener dispensers following the instructions in your owner’s guide.

Remove any detergent or fabric softener residue from the dispenser drawer and recess of the Front Load washer following the instructions in your owner’s guide.

When washing heavily soiled items, shake or brush off excess dirt and sand before washing. If any remains in the tub or drum after washing, wipe it with a nonabrasive household cleanser, then rinse.

Turn water faucets off when not in use to prevent pressure build-up in the washer’s hoses.

For storage of your washer in cold weather conditions (where freezing can occur), follow the instructions in your owner’s guide.

When choosing your preferred water temperature, consider these basic points:

Hot water cleans most effectively, but shouldn’t be used for all items.

Warm water can be used for most normally soiled loads.

Cold water is recommended for lightly soiled or brightly colored items

To compensate for cooler wash water, it may be necessary to soak or prewash heavily soiled items, increase wash time, use a liquid detergent, or use additional laundry products to boost the detergent’s cleaning power. For detergent to be activated, and for powdered detergent to dissolve, the wash water temperature must be at least 65°F.

Tip: If you prefer cold water washing, it’s recommended that you occasionally run a hot or warm water wash, because repeated use of cold water and liquid detergents may produce an odor in the washer over time.

 For best results when washing permanent press items, follow these steps:

Use a warm-water wash to help relax wrinkles, and a cold-water rinse to reduce wrinkling during spin.

Remove items promptly when the cycle is complete.

Load the tub of a top load washer only as high as the top row of holes. In a Front Load washer, avoid packing items too tightly (the door should close easily).

Try selecting a cycle with a slower or shorter final spin.

Add liquid fabric softener to the final rinse water.

Lint will occur naturally through abrasion, but you can reduce it by following these steps:

Use the recommended amount of detergent—it traps lint during the wash cycle and holds it in suspension until it is flushed out in the rinse cycle.

Be sure that your inlet and drain hoses are not kinked or clogged. (Adequate water pressure and proper draining help remove lint from the wash load.)

Sort lint-producing items from lint-attracting items.

Empty all pockets of paper and other objects.

Abrasion will cause pilling on synthetic fabrics and loosely woven or knitted items.

To minimize pilling:

• Sort items made of synthetic fibers from those made of natural fibers, and wash them separately.
• Turn garments inside out for washing.
• Shorten the wash time.

Detergent residue is a white substance that resembles lint and can leave streaks on garments. It can be caused by any of the below:

Powder detergent that does not dissolve.

Using too little detergent.

Incomplete rinsing caused by an overloaded tub or drum.

Misuse of liquid fabric softener.

Hard water.

Low water pressure.

To remove detergent residue, rewash the items in the hottest water safe for the fabrics, using the recommended amount of detergent.

 To avoid discoloration of fabrics, it helps to be aware of the following:

Undiluted liquid fabric softener can cause greasy stains. Rub any such stains with bar soap and then rewash the garment. Be sure to follow the instructions in your washer’s owner’s guide for using fabric softener.

Graying or yellowing of fabric may result from using an inadequate amount of detergent, wash water temperature that is too low, or wash time that is too short.

Sort loads according to soil level. Use the recommended amount of detergent and the hottest water safe for the fabric.

To whiten or brighten items, use chlorine or non-chlorine bleach (if safe for the fabric) or a water conditioner.

Yellow or brown rust stains can be caused by iron or manganese in your water supply or in your water pipes or water heater, as well as by metal fasteners on items in the load. Flush rusty water from pipes by running water into a nearby sink for a few minutes before starting the washer. Drain your water heater occasionally and consider installing an iron filter in the water supply. Remove wet loads from the washer at the end of the cycle. If you do see rust stains, remove them with a rust remover safe for fabrics—NOT with chlorine bleach, which will intensify rust stains.

Because some fabric dyes are unstable and bleed easily, sort items carefully and wash some items separately. Follow care instructions on the fabric label.

Be aware that color loss can be caused by ingredients found in common consumer products, such as chlorine bleach, acne medications, home permanent solutions, battery acid, household cleaners, antiperspirants, hair spray, beverages, shampoo, and toothpaste.

 Dye transfer can occur when damp colored items come in contact with each other before or after washing. Sort items carefully and wash some separately. Remove a wet load from the washer at the end of the cycle and dry it in the dryer, if possible.